Please be sure to read this entire post, as there is important information at the end.
1. WRAPPED CORD WITH QUICK LINK
This curb was designed to help keep the bit balanced on the horse’s head. It is used on the bits with higher purchase and medium to long gag action. The wrap stiffens the cord which will help with the release off the jaw.
2. FLAT LEATHER
Our flat leather curb was created to be refined, with smaller buckles situated close to the double stitched area. This design helps to prevent interference with the headstall and curb loop on the cheek. It is designed to be adjusted on both ends, so that the curb will stay center on the horse’s jaw. The leather curb will create some soft contact on the jaw, which helps with the introduction of the curb, and helps keep the lower jaw from becoming stiff. This curb is available in 3 ½” and 4 ½”, or longer to accommodate short to high purchase bits.
3. FLAT CHAIN
This curb has the same features as the flat leather curb, with small buckles placed close to the chain, as to not interfere with the cheeks of the bit. The chain lays flat on the lower jaw, in order to conform to the area, and is one step up from the flat leather curb. This curb is available in the 3 ½” and 4 ½”, or longer if needed for specific bits.
4. TWIST LINK CHAIN
This curb is a step up from the flat chain. The chain has a twist, so it creates an uneven contract on the jaw. This is designed to ask the horse to extend its poll forward which helps with anatomical balance front to back. The higher the curb sits up the jaw, the clearer the signal will be for the horse to go forward into the bridle. Excessive contact and delayed release can cause a horse to stay behind the bridle. The horse should be in your hands, not pushing or avoiding the bit, which takes time, patience and practice. This curb is available in 3 ½” and 4 ½”.
5. WRAPPED TWIST LINK CHAIN
This curb is the same as curb #4, the twist link chain, but holds its form rather than being flexible. When the curb holds its form, it will release off the jaw quicker, which gives the horse a more black and white signal.
6. BEADED CURB
The beaded curb is designed to school a horse that has lost respect for the flat chain or twisted chain curbs. After numerous competitions runs a horse may need to be reminded to respect the rider. You can change up the curb but leave the bit the same. When the beaded curb is engaged, it will create more push forward of the poll. When this happens, the topline extends allowing the abdominal muscles to contract more efficiently. When this takes place, the bottom of the pelvis comes forward helping to place hind legs up under the body, and the sternum pushes up on the wither making the front feet lighter. This curb should be used in schooling at high-speed competition rate, then removed when respect is renewed. This preserves the curb area for the future. This curb is available in one length, which fits most competition schooling bits.
7. BAR CURB (1/4″ THICK)
The bar curb is offered in 2 styles, the curved and the shaped. Both bar curbs are designed to encourage the horse to extend their poll forward. These curbs should be used on a higher purchase bit, so not to create too much curb pressure.
8. SHAPED BAR CURB
The shaped bar conforms to the shape of the lower jaw, so the initial effect will be delayed in comparison to the #7 Bar Curb, but after contact is made it will affect an area of the jaw including the sides and the bottom.
9. TWIST CURB (1/8″ THICK)
10. SQUARE TWIST CURB (5/16″ THICK)
Food For Thought
All curbs need to be adjusted to release off the jaw when the rein is released. The horse learns from the release, not the pull. When adjusting or changing your headstall, always adjust the curb. Keep the curb centered on the jaw.
Our curbs come with small leather straps with small hole spacings so the curb can be adjusted in small increments. With the leather straps it is easy to keep the curb centered on the jaw and balanced.
There is no excess chain whipping around on one side and not the other. The buckles are away from the curb loop, so there is no pinching or excess bulk under the curb loop.
By putting a collection of curbs together you can maximize the potential of your bits by changing out to different curbs, for the different activities, or for different horses.
The bridle ring and the curb loop should be angled out to accommodate the thickness of the bridle and curb. If not, the bridle ring may push the lip into the teeth, which can be uncomfortable or painful if there are sharp points on the outer edges of the first molar. Educate yourself on your horse’s teeth and make sure you get a qualified dentist to inspect for any issues with your horse’s teeth, because this can be the cause of issues from bitting to nutrition.
Have questions? Please email us and we will do our best to answer them.